Make sure that the area to be decked is flat and stable.
The concrete base should be at least 10cm thick and
have a slight slope – we suggest a gradient of 1 in 80 –
that runs away from the property to allow for the
run-off of water that collects under the deck.
The maximum recommended space
between joist rows depends on the angle
at which you intend to lay your boards
in relation to the joists, but should never
exceed 40cm, please see diagram (above).
Boards must not be laid directly on the ground but
should be fixed to the joists of a suitable supporting
substructure. This will vary, for a domestic patio deck
we typically recommend a simple concrete base and
our own WPC joists.
A gap of at least 15mm should be left between
the ends of joists and a fixed object such as a wall
and of at least 8mm between the ends of joists
at butt joints. These allow for proper drainage and
A starter clip needs to be fixed to the end of the WPC joists before laying the first board. Place these at the
end of each joist where you will start to lay your
boards, leaving a gap of 15mm between the wall
and the starter clip to allow for expansion.
Starter clips allow you to start and finish your decking precisely where you want, meaning you wont have a large gap when fitting against a wall of fence. Attach
the stainless steel starter clip to the end of the WPC
joist before starting to lay your WPC decking boards.
Our WPC boards are easily fastened to the joists of a supporting substructure with the help of our stainless steel screw and plastic T-Clip system. Start at the outside of the area to be decked. Place your first board and fix it to each joist it crosses using a row of starter clips.
Then fit T-clips into the groove along the side of the board and screw them into the supporting joists with the screws provided, one T-Clip for each supporting joist. We recommend you use our stainless steel wood screws offering increased wear and less corrosion.
Fit your next board by sliding it onto the T-Clips used to secure the first board and fitting another set of T-Clips to secure the opposite side of the board, again one T-Clip for each supporting joist. Follow a similar
process to fix subsequent boards.
The ends of boards must be fully supported. No
overhang or cantilever is allowed.
At butt joints – where the ends of two decking boards meet, this may mean doubling up on supporting joists as you will need to ensure that each board is held in place with it’s own T-Clip where they meet.
Having fastened your boards all that remains is to tidy up the sides of your new deck with our WPC skirting and corner trims which can be used to hide the unfinished end of boards and supporting joists.
Our hollow decking end caps are used to seal off the ends of hollow core boards to give your decking a professional finished look, and are available in the same colours as all our composite decking boards. Apply them to neatly complete your decking project.
Corner trims are available in both composite material or aluminium and can be applied subsequently to skirting trims to achieve a
finished look to your project by screwing them directly into the joist below the decking.
Our skirting trims can be screwed directly into joists with wood screws. A gap of at least 8mm should be maintained between skirting trims and the ends and sides of boards to allow for expansion due to temperature increases.
We recommend you do not fully close your deck
to allow for the free circulation of air and drainage.
Every deck is different and this should be used as a guide only. We accept no liability for any loss or injury caused by any reliance placed on this guide.